Tuesday, January 31, 2012

What's that 9:30 p.m. sound?

For weeks now, we have noticed a peculiar sound out in the street next to our apartment building, always at around 9:30 pm.  It is the sound of two wooden sticks being struck together, like a percussive instrument being played in a very slow, steady rhythm.

Last night when we heard this now familiar sound, we quickly turned off our light and opened our window to investigate.  Looking down from our third story window, we saw four people wearing orange vests, walking slowly down the alley.  One carried a traditional lantern, two carried flashlights which they shone here and there as if looking for something, and the fourth beat together two large sticks.  

I was told today that these groups are traditional volunteer fire fighting groups.  They go around the neighborhoods at night signaling with the wooden sticks and checking around for any obvious fire hazards.  The sound reminds citizens to be careful about fire by turning off kerosene heaters before bed, etc.  That makes a lot of sense!  Mystery solved!

In Japan, fire prevention is considered a civic responsibility -- each person feels personally responsible for helping to keep the neighborhood safe from fires.  Long ago, when houses were made of wood with thatched roofs, if a fire broke out in one house, it would quickly spread and could mean the destruction of a whole neighborhood, or worse.  Even with today's modern building materials and methods, earthquakes still increase the risk of fires, and Japanese people take that very seriously.  Some people in country homes still leave buckets of water standing ready outside their doorways, just in case there's a need to douse a fire or soak a roof to prevent fire from spreading.


Mr. Nanto remembers that his Japanese Grandma's very biggest fear was that a fire would break out in her home, even though her home was a farmhouse in the United States.

Can you think of any Civic Responsibilities that you have, as a citizen of Massachusetts, and as a member of your own particular neighborhood?  

Monday, January 23, 2012

Train etiquette

Etiquette means manners, and manners are very important in Japan. We see posters in the train stations with reminders, such as this one:

"Please be careful not to lean against the person sitting next to you should you fall asleep."

No English translation necessary here - keep your cell phone turned off!





Good manners, good reading!

Tuesday, January 17, 2012

Ma-ku-do-na-ru-do's

There is a MacDonald's in our neighborhood, but I've never been (my kids have though!).

However, during our trip to Kyoto I did break down and join Tommy for a MacDonald's breakfast one morning.  Here were a couple of the breakfast choices.  Luckily they also serve Egg McMuffins!

Tuna is a very common fast-food item.  Tuna pizza is also very popular.

For some reason, Japanese people love hot dogs!

Friday, January 13, 2012

Miyajima



On our second day in Hiroshima, we took a side trip to Miyajima, a "sacred island" not far from Hiroshima.  I used to go there sometimes on my days off from work many years ago.  It was so fun to see it again, this time with my family!  Not much has changed there in 25 years.

We took a train and then a short ferry ride to reach the island.  From the ferry we could see the giant orange Torii, which appears as if it's floating in the water during high tide. 



Tommy loved seeing the many deer, which are allowed to roam freely on the island and are quite tame.




We walked around, and toured the Shinto shrine.






 Who can resist a photo with the world's biggest rice paddle?



We ended the day with some traditional sweets called "Momijimangu" - little cakes filled with sweet bean paste, or custard.




And finally we took the ferry back to the mainland, a train to Hiroshima station, a Shinkansen back to Tokyo, and a taxi home to our apartment!


Tuesday, January 10, 2012

Okonomiyaki

After we visited Peace Park, which is a very serious place, we took a nice walk, did a little shopping, and then enjoyed one of Hiroshima's specialties for dinner - Hiroshima style Okonomiyaki.

Okonomiyaki is very hard to explain, and it sounds kind of, well, gross... but it is delicious!  My whole family loved it, and that doesn't happen often.  It is something I ate a LOT when I lived in Hiroshima so I was so anxious to have my family try it.


There must be a hundred Okonomiyaki places in Hiroshima.  We peaked into a place, it looked good, so we took our places at the counter, and placed our order.

At this point our kids are still quite skeptical:)


Okonomiyaki is made in stages:
1.  A thin crepe is cooked first.
2.  Shredded cabbage and bean sprouts, and perhaps some green onion and bonito flakes, are piled on top.
3.  Three thin strips pork are placed on top of this tall stack of veggies.
4.  You can add shrimp, oysters, squid, or even octopus at this point (we didn't). 
5.  The whole thing is flipped over, and it starts sizzling.  Yum!

6.  Meanwhile, the cook fries up some soba noodles with some seasonings and yummy sauce.



 7.  And last, he fries an egg, which will form the bottom of the stack. 


The Okonomiyaki is served with some yummy savory sweet sauce, and it is eaten with chopsticks.  Neatness does not count!

We liked our dinner so much that the next day right before heading back to Tokyo, we ate Okonomiyaki again for lunch at Hiroshima Station!  This time they cooked it behind a counter and then served it up to us on hot griddle at our table.


I'm so glad that my children were willing to try this Hiroshima specialty.

Here's something to think about - What dish would you recommend to a visitor to the United States?  How would you try to convince that visitor to try your favorite food?  Can you think of any foods or dishes that are a specialty of... Boston.... New England... your extended family?



Sadako


During our winter break, we also paid a brief visit to Hiroshima.

From our hotel we took a streetcar to Peace Park, which is very near where I used to live.
Peace Memorial
 


Those of you who have read Sadako and the Thousand Paper Cranes by Eleanor Coerr are familiar with Sadako's story.  Here is her monument.  Those cases behind us are filled to the brim with paper cranes, just as they were when I lived here over twenty years ago.



In Peace Park, there is a museum about the bombing of Hiroshima and its effects.  We were amazed by this display of some of the actual cranes Sadako folded.  They are tiny, about the size of bumblebees.











Monday, January 9, 2012

Beauty School

Kaela and Tommy both take beginner Japanese at school instead of French or Spanish.  The high schoolers taking beginning Japanese went on a field trip to a local beauty school for a "cultural exchange."  Kaela had so much fun being dressed in a traditional kimono!




Saturday, January 7, 2012

Oosouji - "big cleaning"

In Japan, New Year's is also a time to spruce up, polish up, clean out, and clean up.  It is a time to clear out the clutter and dust from the old year, in order to start the new year fresh.  It is considered unlucky to ring in the New Year with clutter or dust from the old year.  It is also considered good luck to completely empty one drawer or closet shelf for the start of the New Year.  Lots of cleaning-related tasks happen in the weeks leading up to "oshogatsu" (New Year's).

When I came across these window washers last month, I couldn't help but imagine the excitement on the other side of the windows - this is an international preschool!   Can you imagine window washers suddenly appearing outside your classroom window at Russell Street?



Last month we had a "fire and pipe inspection" in the apartment.  Uniformed workers came to the apartment, and checked to see whether we were properly cleaning the bathroom drains (it's complicated and we wouldn't have known how to do it if a friend hadn't shown us!) and the kitchen sink drains (also somewhat complicated).  They also inspected our fire alarms and the hose from our washing machine.  They came in quietly and were in and out within five minutes, but it was nerve wracking!

Walking home from errands yesterday morning, I happened to come across our garbage collectors.  They pick up our garbage faithfully each Wednesday and Saturday, and we are grateful!  This was the first garbage pickup day in our neighborhood since the New Year's week when businesses were closed and services suspended, so there was more garbage than usual piled up along the streets in the neighborhood.



We follow very strict rules for recycling and garbage removal, and everything needs to be put out in clear bags (so that officials can check to make sure we aren't cheating!).  We have five (!) garbage cans/bags in our tiny kitchen, for:
1.  Regular garbage, which goes out twice a week.
2.  Miscellaneous plastics, including baggies, packaging, etc.  We are amazed at how much plastic we throw away!
3.  Paper products - also amazing how much paper we use and throw away!
4.  Cans/ glass bottles/PET bottles.   We further sort them into separate piles when we put them out for pickup.
5.  Unburnable garbage (old junk like a flower pot or a broken pair of scissors).
 
This makes recycling at the Transfer Station in Littleton seem like a piece of cake!


We refer to this chart to make sure we are doing the right thing: 



Friday, January 6, 2012

Kyoto, part two

While in Kyoto, we visited Ryooan-ji temple, which includes a very famous Zen rock garden.  There are fifteen rocks, but it is said that from any given position, you can see only fourteen of the rocks.  We counted and found that to be true.  To enter the garden, you pay a small fee, remove your shoes and put on plastic slippers they provide, and then try to find an open spot to quietly view the garden.  We felt very lucky that it wasn't too crowded.



The rocks and raked gravel are meant to symbolize either mountaintops peaking out of the mist, or islands in the ocean.  Most historians agree that the rocks were placed by a man named Soami around 1450.   It is Japan's most famous "hiri-niwa" (a flat garden, without hills or ponds).


Our favorite rock garden, though, was Kodaiji.  A guide explained that although the garden design is usually changed regularly, they decided to leave this design for the whole year, after the earthquake and tsunami.  This design depicts two dragons.  Dragons are said to be able to hold down, to calm, the earth.




For lunch one day we ate at a traditional noodle shop.  We took off our shoes, sat on the tatami (straw) floor, and we were definitely the only Westerners there!



From Kyoto we traveled to Hiroshima - stay tuned for photos of our time there!

Kyoto, part one


Noelle snapped this photo of an elusive Geisha in Kyoto



Over the winter break, we decided to travel a bit within Japan.  Noelle is with us, and it's great to be all together again for a few weeks.  Noelle took lots of pictures, some of which I am including here.

We traveled by bullet train, and spent a few days in Kyoto.  Kyoto was the ancient capital of Japan, and it is still the cultural center of Japan.  We had a great time.  We walked and walked, and saw lots of interesting shrines and temples.  Our first stop was Fushimi Inari Shrine. 

One giant Tori at the entrance gives a hint of what is to be found further up the incline.






If the fortune you receive is negative, leave it tied here and try again another time.


The fox is an important symbol in Japan.  This fox is holding corn - an important harvest symbol. 

Bamboo forest - it was magical!




Next we headed to Kiyomizu Dera.  Noelle snapped this photo of a spring where visitors drink the sacred waters.  There are three streams and it is considered greedy to drink from more than one.  But each spring represents different things, so people have to choose between luck in love, success in school, or a long life.  The line was so very long that we opted for none of the above!







We also visited Kinkakuji, the Golden Pavilion, one of the most famous sites in Kyoto. Noelle took some beautiful photos.


Amazing that at the end of December, there are still leaves on the trees!

The last of the persimmons are still clinging to their branches.